Restaurant is as hot as the delicious food served

IT is only by clever management that my dear Nigerian friend, Mr Clarence Ndabadingi, has avoided some of the issues that have become particularly depressing for the past six months or so.

Joining me in the Potting Shed the other evening for a post-work snifter, the talk inevitably turned to the economy but, to divert from such heavy matters, he soon suggested he really felt like a curry and asked was there somewhere that I could recommend.

Well, I had just been recommended an establishment by a chum, who lives not far from Gainsborough.

The Bengal Dynasty in Kirton Lindsey is a very pleasant drive along Burton Road out of Lincoln, past Scampton, following the B1398 that virtually runs parallel with the A15 (thereby avoiding that dodgy stretch of tarmacadam).

We agreed to give it a try the following evening and, with The Boy and the ever fragrant Mrs FM participating in extra-curricular activities, our way was clear to enjoy a chaps' night out.

When we arrived at the Market Square finding a parking space was easy and only a brief stroll away from the restaurant.

It was very impressive. The first thing that greets visitors is the bar and a small area for takeaway customers.

However, Clarry and me were led into the downstairs restaurant area, where several quite well-dressed diners were already enjoying their meals.

The restaurant is beautifully decorated in a most modern style considering the age of the fabric of the building.

The tables were clad in contrasting colour tablecloths, with fine linen napkins placed alongside impeccably shiny cutlery and china. In fact, when laying the tables, the waiting staff don soft white gloves for the purpose of keeping utensils immaculately clean.

Tiny blue LED spotlights illuminate the interior pillars and window areas and there is an air of high quality to the furnishings and decorations.

Having been handed menus by the very good looking and smiley young waiter, we ordered a bottle apiece of Lal Toofan, which is a Rajastani basmati rice brew.

Possessing a rich golden colour, fine bubbles that excite the palate and a wonderfully rounded flavour, it is moderately strong at 5.2 per cent Alc. volume but is an excellent accompaniment to spicy food. A well stocked and maintained wine cellar is also a feature of the restaurant.

As you may recall, Mr Ndabadingi enjoys a jolly hot curry, while I prefer a more flavoursome and milder but no less spicy alternative, yet we both decided that a mixed hors d'oeuvre would be the best way to start the meal, followed by his choice of a speciality of the restaurant, lamb rezalla, while I opted for the chicken roghan josh.

We would share portions of boiled rice, keema rice, tarka dhall (lentils) and Bombay potatoes, while a chapati apiece and a single rough-thrown Peshwari naan bread could also be shared between us.

Although consuming the yoghurt-based lassi drink is a relative novelty to my guest, rather than partaking of the savoury version during the meal, we would end it with a jug of mango- flavoured lassi as a dessert at the end.

Our starters arrived and a large platter contained for each of us two pieces of tandoori chicken, a minced lamb sheek kebab, two onion bhajis and a vegetable samosa, served alongside fresh green salad leaves and chopped tomatoes, accompanied by a pouring jug of mango and coriander raita (to be fair, this term is applied to south Asian dips but it covers the dipping sauce as descriptively).

The chicken was sweet, tender and sinew-free, while retaining a high degree of succulence.

The customary orangey-red tandoori coating had only been applied thinly, although the expected flavour was very evident.

The minced lamb kebab was delicious and, once again, very succulent and the flavours of the coriander and finely diced green chillies (not excessively hot) were present to excite the taste buds.

The onion bhajis, produced from gram flour, onions, garlic and minced coriander (which has always been one of my favourite herbs) were probably the best such items I have ever tasted, a factor with which Clarence agreed heartily.

Finally, the crispy pastry crusts of the samosas were filled with potato chunks, herbs and spices and added another flavour explosion to a highly satisfying starter course.

Prior to the main courses being delivered, our waiter placed two heater plates in the centre of our table and relaid the cutlery in preparation.

My roghan dish was the first to be placed on the hot plates, followed by the rices and side dishes, however, it was Mr Ndabadingi's flaming rezalla that made the show-stopping appearance, drizzled as it had been in Sambuca and then ignited.

Served on a cast-iron skillet, it looked truly splendid, a mix of lamb strips, cooked with red and green chillies and sweet peppers, the essence of garlic and methi blending with the slight aniseed of the liqueur.

The lamb was tender and beautifully prepared, which ensured that the flavour of the meat was still present and not masked by spices.

Although it was slightly too hot for my taste, I could still savour the mouthful I tried and it was outstandingly delicious and demonstrated that the chef is very particular with his choice of cuts and butchery, while the well-rounded blend of Indian spices could be sensed individually. This takes mastery in any kitchen.

My chicken roghan was one of the finest I have eaten. The flesh was juicy and the sauce was a rare delight of well-judged textures and consistencies, none of which was anything less than fascinating to consume.

The Bombay spiced potatoes were utterly gorgeous, the fluffy white flesh clearly visible upon slicing each chunk open, while the blend of garlic, thyme and slightly caramelised onion could be tasted beneath the curry spices.

Curried lentils (tarka dhall) is another of my favourites and the lovely nutty flavour was very much in evidence, mixed impeccably with sliced garlic and a small amount of turmeric for both colour and flavour.

The breads, unleavened chapati and naan, were superb as were the rices and we both enjoyed our meals immensely, finishing them with a jug of freshly made mango lassi, which was ice cold and packed with small pieces of the fruit, with that lovely off-centre yoghurt flavour, sweetened ever so slightly with honey.

We promised each other that we would return but also bring our partners with us on the next occasion.